Aurelio Costarella Spring Summer 2012 2013 Backstage Beauty Report

"Aurelio Costarella doesn't really follow trends," hair director Lee Preston (Goldwell) said backstage. That meant that a sleek ponytail, the hot style of the season, had to get a fresh feel to it so Preston went down the equestrian route and created two ponytails on the occipital bone that were then "knotted" together to give the style a "slick, directional feel." But it didn't end there. Chalk powder was mixed in with a Goldwell gel to create a white paste that was brushed over models' part in the front. The makeup was equally eye-catching. James Molloy (MAC) created the 1920s gothic-inspired look, saying of the eye: "It's shadowy by not eye shadow." He didn't want any graphic lines, instead it was to look as though it was an effect from lighting. The look took lots of layering. First a taupe was applied all over the lid and outside of the brow bone, then a cream-base moss green was patted on top, and then finally a gold-green pigment to finish the "mesmerising melancholic look."