Carl Kapp Spring Summer 2012 Backstage Beauty Report

"It's a modern take on the classic '80s wedge," Alan White (ghd) told us of the Carl Kapp hair look. Citing a "modern Helmut Newton woman" and Rooney Mara in The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo as references, White did lots of pre-show prep as there were 33 models who all needed to have wigs fitted and styled. As well as the ghd mini styler, he used Straight and Smooth Spray, Smooth and Finish Serum and Final Shine Spray right at the end to emulate Madonna's wet-look, high-shine strands in her "Rain" video. Bec Prior (Napoleon Perdis) also referred to "'80s and '90s Helmut Newton" as an influence saying of the makeup: "It's the element of contrast. There's a strong, androgynous feel. The hair's quite severe so this is the softer counterpart. It's still strong, but it's got a softer edge." She created an "eye stain" using Brown Sugar Eye Pencil applied with a synthetic brush, applied mascara on the top lashes "to balance the hair" and used Auto Pilot Lip Service on the lips and as a highlighter on the cheekbones. "We're keeping their natural lip colour but, as this has menthol in it, it stimulates the blood flow and really brings that colour to the surface." Here's your access-all-areas backstage pass.