2012 AW London Fashion Week

With PETA protesters outside and six-by-six model formations on the runway, it was a chaotic scene at Emporio Armani's Autumn/Winter 2012 show. The collection, described by Armani as "animated by fun, ironic touches, alluding to the roaring '20s, made all the more unpredictable by the addition of Bermudas," was just as exciting. Whimsical was the name of the game; knicker-inspired trousers were layered under the majority of the looks, paired with velvet dresses, beaded peplum skirts, and fun rose petal vests — all while paired with oxfords and slippers. The extravagant delight didn't stop there; hot pink velvet jackets, camellia-embellished dresses, and louche multicolored sequined jackets also made an appearance on the runway. While the styling may look busy at first glance, it worked because every piece was ultimately beautiful on its own.

• Trends: Knicker trousers, fringe, coloured fur, peplum, embellishment.
• Colours: Black, purple, navy, pink, grey.
• Key Piece: We loved the shimmery sequin and velvet jackets.
• Accessories: Floppy fisherman and beret hats, loafers, satchel bags, statement necklaces, wide belts, brooches.
• Who Would Wear It: Olivia Palermo, Camilla Belle, and Kerry Washington; girls willing to take a risk on the red carpet.

For Bottega Veneta's Fall 2012 collection, Tomas Maier showed us his take on wearable luxury, highlighting sleek suiting, sharp coats, and an impressive batch of evening wear. “The look is covered up and the materials are virtually impenetrable, yet the effect is powerfully physical,” said Maier. Day wear focused on tailored coats, cropped trousers, and skirt suits featuring brooch-adorned jackets, refined blazers, and knee-length pencil skirts dipped in purple, black, and navy hues. Meanwhile, '40s-inspired shift dresses were injected with a modern touch via sliced leather insets and statement prints. The latter was featured on a striking cap-sleeve dress with a bold corset belt. Evening wear honed in on Maier's love for texture; velvet and feathered cocktail dresses and peplum gowns emoted the perfect sense of opulence, with just the right amount of mystique. For his die-hard bag ladies, Maier provided a range of reptilian-print satchels and leather clutches featuring the brand's iconic woven intrecciato technique. More details from the collection below.

• Trends: Peplum, velvet, cropped trousers.
• Colours: Black, purple, grey, mauve, orange, brown, navy.
• Key Piece: The feather and jewel-embellished dresses were beautiful.
• Accessories: Knee-high boots, opera-length gloves, reptilian-print and woven satchels, jewelled brooches, ankle-strap pumps, sheer socks.
• Who Would Wear It: Victoria Beckham, Julianne Moore, and Diane Kruger; women who crave ladylike polish with a modern edge.

For Versus Autumn/Winter 2012, Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane took it to the streets of London, more specifically to the Camden underground scene. Translation: it's all about the tough girl with a confident punk attitude and a penchant for grittier, trippier silhouettes. Between the bright tie-dye prints and rocker-chick lace-up minidresses, we could tell that Versus was honing in on its playful spirit and younger edge. While the collection offered a solid lineup of minis, over-the-knee leather boots, shredded-front tees, and general punk-appropriate attire, there were also some super-structured leather outerwear that struck us as totally wearable, no matter your personal style preference. Although Donatella and Christopher combined rougher elements — rock music, teenage angst, and more — the result can be easily transitioned into a sexier cocktail look. See more Versus details below.

• Trends: Bright tie-dye-meets-ikat prints, lace-up minis, strong leather silhouettes, and rounded shoulders.
• Colours: Fuchsia, turquoise, yellow, black, burgundy, and midnight blue.
• Key Piece: The punk-rock minidresses that featured sequins, psychedelic prints, or lace-up details.
• Accessories: Boxy purses, over-the-knee leather rocker boots, and tough biker boots with colorful piping.
• Who Would Wear It: Ladies who aren't afraid of showing a little skin with more than just a little attitude, like Heidi Klum, Diane Kruger, and Mila Kunis.

Mini and maxi silhouettes, electric-hued animal prints, and decadent furs ruled the runway at Roberto Cavalli's bohemian-cum-glam Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. Our full review will be posted shortly, for now, click through to see the full runway line up.

Giorgio Armani delivered the art of slick suiting and a master class in bold colour for Autumn/Winter 2012. We're not just mesmerized by the double and triple vision stunts Armani pulled on his catwalk — though the sight of two or three models in the same sharp suiting, brilliant fuchsia and orange, and slick fedoras really drives the point home. Still, even without the "special effects," the collection is built up in confidence. Strong shapes and new silhouettes — like a return to longer menswear-style shorts paired with vibrant ladylike jackets and bold colour-infused woven knits — result in something all at once androgynous and insanely glam. That's largely due to the fact that these new season looks are saturated in hot pinks, purples, and orange; the palette is drama-inducing in itself — but add to that the luxuriousness of fur crystal embellishment and vibrant abstract print, and the resulting styles start to run into diva territory. There are few people, save for Anna Dello Russo or Lady Gaga, who could pull off a cotton-candy-feeling fur coat — fortunately the collection is also much more wearable than that. Grey suiting adorned with rosettes and finished with oxfords has a snappier feel than the lavishness of his colour-saturated fur, and that's the bread and butter here: sportier evening themes and rich colour play.

• Trends: Coloured fur, slick fedoras, colour-blocking, menswear, shorts cropped just above the knee, gloves, textured woven knits, abstract print, and sequins.
• Colours: Red, black, hot pink, orange, purple, and grey.
• Key Piece: The sequined coat has just the right slinky, sexy quality to it; we're taken with Armani's colorblocked hot-pink oxfords.
• Accessories: Cutout gloves, wide-brim fedoras, layered statement necklaces, coloured oxford kicks, slick clutches.
• Who Would Wear It: The risk-taker with an eye for sharp silhouettes and statement colour; Anna Dello Russo could rock the hot-pink fur — but she may just be about the only one who can.

For Missoni's A/W 2012 collection, designer Angela Missoni was inspired by a mix of urban influences and an immersion in nature and landscape. According to show notes, the woman of Autumn/Winter '12 is a "heroine in a concrete jungle", and conceives fashion as an "evocative adventurous fantasy" while maintaining a strong-willed, sophisticated yet sensitive vibe. The collection was, of course, loaded with Missoni's signature knits, but this time in a more subtle way — the zigzag print was evident in super-tight trousers and knee-length tank dresses, but soon gave way to plaid wool and alternating geometric and amorphous patterns. This urban warrior woman was protected by elbow-length leather gloves, latex corsets, and shiny metallic embellishments, as well as chunky, thin-tipped heels and boots, and carried chic square-shaped bags with chain straps and wood-grain detailing. Overall, the Missoni girl is more than prepared to battle the elements of the concrete jungle.

• Trends: Fur accents, shoulder wraps, print mixing, long hemlines.
• Colours: Red, rust, grey, blue, moss green, brown.
• Key Piece: The sheer lace dress with brocade cape; the gold-encrusted party dress with black veil.
• Accessories: Elbow-length leather gloves, thin waist belts, fur hats, thin-tipped boots and heels, geometric gold brooches.
• Who Would Wear It: Leighton Meester, Olivia Palermo, and of course, Margherita Missoni.

Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni showed a world of colour-blocking, structured silhouettes, and small-scale prints for Autumn/Winter 2012. '60s mod styling got a dose of Eastern influence on the runway — models were clad in bright shift dresses, trousers, and skirt suits, almost always topped with a boxy coat and cinched at the waist with wide leather belts. The designer also offered up offered up slick coats in luxe exotic looks like python, patent leather, and plaid-print furs, which proved visually stunning alongside head-to-toe black and gold jacquard and floral print ensembles. Hopefully you haven't tired of the hosiery trend yet; white tights were layered under each look (even pants), then finished with Kabuki-style platform Mary Janes for a vaguely Oriental feel. Get the rest of the details below.

• Trends: Jacquard prints, colour-blocking, fur vests, white tights, boxy coats with oversize pockets.
• Colours: Red, black, grey, baby blue, camel.
• Key Piece: The sleek black python coat; the matching jacquard pantsuit.
• Accessories: Jewelled brooches, colourful sunglasses, structured satchels, metallic-toe heels, wide waist belts.
• Who Would Wear It: Girls with a retro-chic sensibility and a knack for playing with prints.

If we had to describe Dolce & Gabbana's A/W 2012 collection in one word, it would be opulent. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have a knack for capturing the essence and unbridled spirit of the Italian woman, and for Fall, they showed a luxe, Sicilian Baroque-inspired collection of lace, elaborate brocade embroidery, and sleek, sexy silhouettes. The show opened with stunning rose-covered chandeliers and sweeping floral arrangements to the music of authentic Italian opera — big names like Natasha Poly, Bianca Balti, and Joan Smalls graced the runway in delicate lace dresses with lavish gold embellishments, sweet, frothy frocks in layers of tulle, and ruffled bloomers that would make even Sophia Loren blush. The plunging necklines of Spring '12 were replaced with ladylike high ruffles and bow-ties, and although sheer lace was prevalent, most hemlines stayed well below the knee for a true sophisticated spin on la dolce vita. The bold needlepoint-style florals and cherubic mural prints will also be an editorial dream come the Autumn editorials — we can already see stars like Blake Lively and Sarah Jessica Parker getting shot in them. Get the complete breakdown below.

• Trends: Lots of lace; floral motifs, cherub prints, brocade, layers of tulle.
• Colours: Black, white, nude, gold.
• Key Piece: The sheer lace dress with brocade cape; the gold-encrusted party dress with black veil.
• Accessories: Bejewelled headbands, decadent drop earrings and statement necklaces, velvet evening bags, lace knee socks, carved wood heels.
• Who Would Wear It: Risk-takers like Zoe Saldana, Anna Dello Russo, and Lana Del Rey; not to mention Dame Helen Mirren, who sat front row at the show.

The Versace A/W 2012 collection was all about the Rooney Mara goth-meets-Joan of Arc goddess hero, right down to the bluntly cut bangs and barely-there eyebrows. But this no-nonsense kind of girl certainly knows how to dress up. The dark palette and edgy shapes were inspired by brother Gianni's final collection, "an era," Donatella said she finally had "the courage to go back to." The result? Strong dress silhouettes — some in tough leather, some in chain-mesh satin, for example — were highlighted by Byzantine cross embroidery, a slick metallic sheen, and corseted bodices that closely resembled metal armour. But not to fear, the signature Versace hourglass figure remained intact, thanks to artful peplum details and silver accents that strategically emphasized the waistline. To illustrate our point, just look to one jaw-dropping chain-linked silver disc gown for bombshell confirmation. We think this stand out number proves a worthy candidate for rush delivery to the Oscars red carpet. To polish off the Autumn/Winter '12 lineup with a saucy minx undertone, Donatella sent models out wearing fishnet mesh boots, fishnet gloves, and holding cross-embroidered clutches. See below for more Versace details.

• Trends: Byzantine cross embroidery, chain mesh detail, ultra-shiny finishes, and corseted bodices.
• Colours: Black, metallic silver, neon yellow, orange, and pops of red.
• Key Piece: The full-on chain mail and chain mesh-infused gowns screamed "red carpet."
• Accessories: Cross-embroidered clutches, fishnet boots, and fishnet gloves.
• Who Would Wear It: Ladies who can own a strong, edgy shape, like Rooney Mara, Kate Beckinsale, and Diane Kruger.

Peter Dundas showed off his signature sex appeal for Emilio Pucci's Fall 2012, crafting a decadent line in fur, sheer, and rich leather detail. It was a little like sensory overload at Pucci — that's not to say that it wasn't all done with perfect precision — there was just a lot to take in. When Dundas isn't honing his craft on ultrasexy evening wear — full-length, figure-flaunting gowns with sheer cutouts or embellished detail — he offers up brilliant prints on both slouchy suiting and drama-inducing frocks. Nearly everything gets the luxe treatment; if it's not a fur tossed nonchalantly over gowns and metallic suiting, then it's skirts and shifts finished in textured croc — and a leg-baring slit went with practically anything. Still, to sum it all up in red-carpet glamour would mean missing the menswear-inspired coats and tuxedo jacket paired with smart cropped trousers and finished in sharp white and black or soft powder blue. Dundas zeroes in on both the super-sexy and the smarter stuff here — and with all things, he stuns.

• Trends: Sheer, cut-outs, leather, fur, menswear, slits, metallics.
• Colours: White, soft blue, nude, eggplant, olive green, kaleidoscope prints.
• Key Piece: The delicate blue embellished cocktail sheath.
• Accessories: Jewel-adorned pumps, tall suede boots, crisscross strappy stilettos, chain-strap box clutches, fur hats.
• Who Would Wear It: Sexy red-carpet types with a taste for drama; fans like Gwyneth Paltrow.