"It's a modern take on the classic '80s wedge," Alan White (ghd) told us of the Carl Kapp hair look. Citing a "modern Helmut Newton woman" and Rooney Mara in The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo as references, White did lots of pre-show prep as there were 33 models who all needed to have wigs fitted and styled. As well as the ghd mini styler, he used Straight and Smooth Spray, Smooth and Finish Serum and Final Shine Spray right at the end to emulate Madonna's wet-look, high-shine strands in her "Rain" video. Bec Prior (Napoleon Perdis) also referred to "'80s and '90s Helmut Newton" as an influence saying of the makeup: "It's the element of contrast. There's a strong, androgynous feel. The hair's quite severe so this is the softer counterpart. It's still strong, but it's got a softer edge." She created an "eye stain" using Brown Sugar Eye Pencil applied with a synthetic brush, applied mascara on the top lashes "to balance the hair" and used Auto Pilot Lip Service on the lips and as a highlighter on the cheekbones. "We're keeping their natural lip colour but, as this has menthol in it, it stimulates the blood flow and really brings that colour to the surface." Here's your access-all-areas backstage pass.
“It’s poolside sophistication,” Alan White (ghd) said when chatting about the wet-look hairstyle he created for the Bec & Bridge show. “She lives on the Almafi Coast, she’s jumped in the pool and she’s lounging in the sun letting her hair dry naturally.” We instantly want her life. He was putting S-bends in the hair with the ghd mini styler before loading up the hair with ghd Smooth & Finish Serum to create the damp look. “We want that indentation with the bend as it will help to define the hair when it’s got all the product in.” For the “Mediterranean Summer” makeup look Nicole Thompson (MAC) literally wanted models to be “dripping in moisture”. That meant last minute spritzes of MAC Fix + and clear gloss through the brows. To avoid models from looking greasy, she pressed Silver Dust Loose Powder into the cheek before the MAC Fix + went on. Something Special cream blush was also used on the front of the cheeks and up through the brow bone to give a warm glow. OPI Don’t Touch My Tutu was chosen for a sheer nail.
Alan White (ghd) is proving to be quite the colour chameleon this Fashion Week. The always-impressive hair director gave a nod to Frida Kahlo in the texture and twists of the hair look that he created for Manning Cartell, finishing off the style with one of 21 muted pastel hair colours, which helped to "bring a youthfulness to the brand." The hair wasn't the only thing colourful, either. Nails got an injection of chartreuse thanks to Nicki Minaj's Did It On 'Em polish by OPI. Max May (MAC) continued the homage to Kahlo in the makeup palette but stressed that he didn't take the inspiration too literally. The brow had a little of Kahlo's strength to it, by squaring up the high point, but May focused more on the glossy eye to keep the look "young and hot."
Backstage at Manning Cartell, chief face painter Natasha Severino told us she was creating a "fresh and youthful look" that had an air of "mysterious sultriness" running throughout. The result? A beautifully iridescent face that featured gorgeous Middle Eastern hues. The hair was equally as exotic, with lead hairstylist Alan White describing the Manning Cartell S/S '11 woman as "a beautiful girl who spends time wondering through the exotic markets of Marrakesh and Tunis." He created a centre-parted, knotted ponytail to perfectly reflect this.
- Makeup: Natasha Severino for MAC
- Look: Fresh, sexy and sultry
- Colours: Burnt orange and browns
- Key products: Texture and Arena Eye Shadows, Hush Cream Colour Base
- Hair: Alan White for ghd
The Spring/Summer 2010-11 hair look for Fernando Frisoni's models was dubbed "Sao Paulo Subterraneo" backstage. It was created by ghd's Alan White and again featured two different textures: wet-look on top, loose and dry on the bottom. As you may have noticed, it's been a BIG trend this Fashion Week, so we got the lowdown on the how-to from Alan . . .
STEP 1: Take a section of the hair, no higher than the occipital bone and blow-dry into the nape of the neck. Work ghd maximise mousse through the ends for hold.
STEP 2: Using your ghd styler, put a 2-inch long, loose wave through the ends, making sure that you go no higher than the nape of the neck.
The hair worked in tandem with the makeup—with Hair Director for ghd Alan White working a Spanish-Latin feel into the look. But for him, it was really all about different textures. The top of the style had a shiny texture to it, and Alan created a deep centre part, low across the forehead.
The hair was then pulled into a low pony, which was secured into place with a weft. The pony, unlike the front of the style, had a dry texture to it and the finishing touch was a "stirrup-like" earring that was used as a hair piece. This lifted the hair off the neck and adds volume into the pony. If you're looking for a slick and sharp pony at home, Alan recommends ghd Obedience Cream; you need just the smallest amount to add to the surface of the hair and it ensures the whole style stays in place and flyaways are locked down.