Alan White

"It's a modern take on the classic '80s wedge," Alan White (ghd) told us of the Carl Kapp hair look. Citing a "modern Helmut Newton woman" and Rooney Mara in The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo as references, White did lots of pre-show prep as there were 33 models who all needed to have wigs fitted and styled. As well as the ghd mini styler, he used Straight and Smooth Spray, Smooth and Finish Serum and Final Shine Spray right at the end to emulate Madonna's wet-look, high-shine strands in her "Rain" video. Bec Prior (Napoleon Perdis) also referred to "'80s and '90s Helmut Newton" as an influence saying of the makeup: "It's the element of contrast. There's a strong, androgynous feel. The hair's quite severe so this is the softer counterpart. It's still strong, but it's got a softer edge." She created an "eye stain" using Brown Sugar Eye Pencil applied with a synthetic brush, applied mascara on the top lashes "to balance the hair" and used Auto Pilot Lip Service on the lips and as a highlighter on the cheekbones. "We're keeping their natural lip colour but, as this has menthol in it, it stimulates the blood flow and really brings that colour to the surface." Here's your access-all-areas backstage pass.

“It’s poolside sophistication,” Alan White (ghd) said when chatting about the wet-look hairstyle he created for the Bec & Bridge show. “She lives on the Almafi Coast, she’s jumped in the pool and she’s lounging in the sun letting her hair dry naturally.” We instantly want her life. He was putting S-bends in the hair with the ghd mini styler before loading up the hair with ghd Smooth & Finish Serum to create the damp look. “We want that indentation with the bend as it will help to define the hair when it’s got all the product in.” For the “Mediterranean Summer” makeup look Nicole Thompson (MAC) literally wanted models to be “dripping in moisture”. That meant last minute spritzes of MAC Fix + and clear gloss through the brows. To avoid models from looking greasy, she pressed Silver Dust Loose Powder into the cheek before the MAC Fix + went on. Something Special cream blush was also used on the front of the cheeks and up through the brow bone to give a warm glow. OPI Don’t Touch My Tutu was chosen for a sheer nail.

Alan White (ghd) is proving to be quite the colour chameleon this Fashion Week. The always-impressive hair director gave a nod to Frida Kahlo in the texture and twists of the hair look that he created for Manning Cartell, finishing off the style with one of 21 muted pastel hair colours, which helped to "bring a youthfulness to the brand." The hair wasn't the only thing colourful, either. Nails got an injection of chartreuse thanks to Nicki Minaj's Did It On 'Em polish by OPI. Max May (MAC) continued the homage to Kahlo in the makeup palette but stressed that he didn't take the inspiration too literally. The brow had a little of Kahlo's strength to it, by squaring up the high point, but May focused more on the glossy eye to keep the look "young and hot."