Fashion Week Australia

Kim Ellery is a shape-shifter of sorts — able to swing the style pendulum back to places we thought had had their time — making old look new in the process. Kim really let her formalist aesthetic shine for Spring/Summer '13-'14,  presenting a collection full of sculptural shoulder shapes, plus-sized sleeves, super-flare trousers and oversised shells that sat away from the body — seemingly suspended in mid-air, floating centremitres from the figure. Proportion and texture was at play too; narrow column-shaped waistlines giving contrast to the architecturally precise flared sleeves and hemlines while fur and crocodile fabrications upped the luxe quotient. Satin waist-tied tops and jackets worn at the hips relaxed what could be an otherwise stitched-up silhouette, injecting the lineup with a glamous dose of grunge. Dainty, sparse floral prints hinted that Ellery's tough girl troupe had a softer side to show, and the teeny-tiny shorts and structured bodices would come in handy for when some (not too obvious) sex appeal was required. 

• Colours: Black, white, and splashes of mustard yellow and silver.
• Trends: Minimalism, front splits, sculptural shapes, lace, sleeveless jackets and flares.
• Key Looks: Flared, printed trousers, lack and white, exagerated sci-fi shoulder shapes and fur.
• Accessories: Fine-strap sandals with nifty over-ankle flared collars and layered jewellery from Petite Grand.

Lisa Ho's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia show was always going to be a goodie in the makeup department, thanks to Mac Cosmetics queen, Val Garland. Val worked on the sublime Romance Was Born makeup look on Monday night, and she brings her signature flare to Lisa Ho. She wanted the dark, crimson lip to have life and depth — much like the swirls seen in murano glass — while the rest of the face is contoured. Ghd's Alan White impressed with hair, taking inspiration from the Helmut Newton power woman. More custom-mixed lips and even some midnight blue hairpieces. It's day three — let's go!

The Ginger & Smart girls are known for their way with a tricked-up graphic, and their Spring/Summer '13-'14 collection stays strikingly true to this visual signature. Rainbow-prism patterns and placement lace prints took centre-stage, with a fresh palette of navy, turquoise, white, peach and pale salmon playing backup roles. Linear motifs gave a graphic framework to the lineup of colour-blocked separates and the theme continued via window-pane-over-floral prints, strategic pattern-blocked splicing and match-stitch devore silks all walking the line in one way or other. Slick suiting was a feature, as were the nipped-waist special occasion frocks — but for our money it was the cheeky cut-out bustier tops, monotone suiting and clever origami-pleatwork in lush silk-satin that inspired. 

• Colours: Navy, white, black, turquoise, peach, emerald green, grey and pale salmon.
• Trends: Graphic prints, trouser suits, crop tops, cut-out, colour-blocking, navy blue and graphic prints. 
• Key Looks: A striking three peice trouser suit complete with crop top got our attention, as did the double-breasted zip-front blazers, a luxe-looking pair of white leather jodphur pants worn with a navy silk crop top and the interesting back detailing on the cocktail frocks.
• Accessories: Colour-blocked platform leather sandals, dainty driving gloves, neat leather cuffs worn on each wrist and architecturally inspired rectangular box bags and clutches.

Leave it to Kym Ellery to not only have the awesome model threesome that is Julia Nobis, Hanne Gaby Odiele and Ruby Jean Wilson; but she also went with a rebellious, outlaw hair and beauty look. Napoleon Perdis wanted the makeup to look milky and clean, but barely there. St. Tropez used a lengthening illuminator trick on arms and legs, while Toni & Guy Hair Meet Wardrobe channelled Joan Jett and iconic one-time model and designer, Anita Pallenberg. This is very cool, hop in.

Asking the high-heeled fashion week crowd to totter off-site to a deserted warehouse requires an element of trust in the designer. Luckily Christopher Esber, as he has done for the past two years consecutively, delivered in spades. A garment factory in industrial Marrickville proved an apt location for his Spring/Summer '13-'14 show. Sore feet and cab-anxiety were forgiven instantly thanks to this rising star's knack for making tailoring look new and cool. Raw cotton edges, sculpted hemlines, liquid silver fabrications and languid silk separates created a capsule of wearable yet fresh shapes for the working woman'a wardrobe. But let us be clear, this was not a 'corporate' collection in any sense of the word. Cool? Yes. Modern? Yes. Unexpected? That too. Gauzy checked linen mixed it with heavy wool crepe. Slick leather made the perfect counterpoint to utilitarian cotton shirting. Cropped trouser suits and front-split skirts were simultaneusly polished and practical. These subtle textural contrasts gave the entire lineup a touch-me-please appeal but not via the predictable options of fur, fluff or feathers. We'd trek to the back of Bourke for clothes like this any day. And you have that in writing, Mr Esber. 

• Colours: Navy, black, white, cream, cobalt, oyster, grey, oatmeal, pale peach and sky blue. 
• Trends: Tailoring, wrap-front skirts and double breasted dresses, oversized shapes, sheer, cropped trousers, leather, crop tops, midi-length hemlines and split-front skirts.
• Key Looks: Heavy cream crepe peices with sculptural hemlines, liquid silver tailored separates, sheer linen shirting and drop-waist tunics. Expert tailoring made cool. 
• Accessories: Black double t-bar sandals with conical heels from ASOS. 

We were on the ground covering Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia and the first show up was Camilla and Marc. Napoleon Perdis was on makeup and said that the inspiration came directly from the Russian Matryoshka doll — also an inspiration for the designers. The nails, by Ciate, took on a mannequin effect with a seamless, skin-coloured nude, and the hair was simple and wearable. Click through to read what the hair and makeup artists had to say backstage before the show.

The '90s were an obvious influence on Bec & Bridge's Spring/Summer '13-'14 collection, with a number of catwalk pieces looking like they may have stepped right out of Kate Moss' wardrobe - circa her Calvin Klein days (and we mean that in a good way). Bias-cut satin slip dresses and camisoles hugged the body, as did a number of seductive, sheer-spliced cocktail dresses that would look equally at home in the boudoir as they would holding up a darkened piano bar. In stark contrast, there were oversized sports-inspired pieces which brought plus-sized appeal via roomy cuts and PE class silhouettes. Boxy biker vests, drawstring-waist leather shifts and loose satin boxer shorts begged for athletic movement. Tight versus oversized, sexy versus sporty, nostalgic versus modern - it's the magical mix that makes us want to be a player on Bec & Bridge's team this season.

• Colours: Navy, black, white, spearmint, mulberry, salmon and silver.
• Trends: The '90s, sportswear, sheer, slip dresses, satin, oversized outerwear, cigarette trousers and midi-length hemlines.
• Key Looks: Sleeveless leather biker vests, sheer-spliced party dresses, satin slip dresses, iridescent sequinned trousers, metallic knits, exposed underwear built into dresses and tops.
• Accessories: Ankle strap pointed toe pumps by Tony Bianco in subdued colourways.

Julia Nobis looked like a modern-day fairy on Alex Perry's Spring/Summer '13-'14 runway, a halo of stage-show lights creating an ethereal glow as she stalked the darkened loading dock-cum-catwalk. It might have been the start of another red carpet spectacular, however there wasn't a Perry Princess in sight. Gone were the full-skirts and layers of tulle that we've come to expect from Alex, replaced by equally spectacular but noticably downsized silhouettes. Short, ready-to-roll party dresses with high necklines and full, bell-skirt shapes started proceedings in a wave of delicate, gauzy laces. Then came the gowns! Slinky mermaid trains chased up the figure-hugging sheaths. Subtle colour-blocking, front splits, neoprene and strategically placed sheer inserts lent a sporty vibe, complimented by the use of racer-necklines and feature backs. Suiting broke up the frock-fest with razor sharp tuxedo blazers and cigarette trousers. So-sexy lace-up thigh high boots furthered the long, lean lines on show - putting the focus on that sexy three inches of thigh between the edge of the dress hem and the top of boot. It was an Alex Perry show no doubt, but not of the usual kind. And we like that. 

• Colours: Nude, black, white, marigold yellow, peach and gold.
• Trends: Racer-necklines, front splits, sporty shapes, sheer, lace, colour-blocking and the trouser suit. 
• Key Looks: Gauzy lace party dresses, sleek and sexy gowns, schmick tailoring and anything with an exposed zip.
• Accessories: Tony Bianco exclusively created the lace-up front/zip-up back ankle and thigh-high boots in camel and black suede.

Every Fashion Week has a unique personality, and ours can only be categorised as fearless. It is not rare to see full-on costume makeup on the MBFWA catwalks, but on the other hand, there are also edgy looks that push the envelope without being impossible to re-create at home. While the looks coming down the runway ranged from sweet to somewhat scary, we selected the top 22 anyone can try right now.

Surviving ten years in the local rag trade is no mean feat, as Camilla Freeman Topper and Marc Freeman well know, so today's first fashion week runway show at was something of a celebration for the home-grown label. As Camilla told us last week, their '13-'14 collection calls on the past as much as looks to the future; paying tribute both to their archival collections and to the Freeman family's stylish lineage — naming their mother and grandmother as joint muses. There were plenty of signature Camilla and Marc pieces on the runway; statement-making blazers, palazzo pants and asymmetrial party dresses are sure to keep loyal customers coming back, but the line's newly refined aesthetic will snare a fresh client base too. It was gown up, it was cohesive, it was true the brand's roots yet similarly fresh and new. Camilla and Marc just keep getting better with age. 

• Colours: Black, white, red, royal blue, orange and gold. 
• Trends: Tailoring, racer-necklines, gold brocade, netting, satin, front-split skirts, leather and crop tops.
• Key Looks: Sharply-cut trouser suits in white and black, figure-flattering party dresses spliced with netting trim, a brilliantly boxy white leather bomber jacket and languid drop-crotch trousers in leopad print satin. 
• Accessories: Wide belts with solid-metal fasteners worn on the waist or hipbone, ankle-strap platform pumps, Ryan Storer ear-cuffs and interesting neck and wrist pieces by Estelle Deve.